The only thing that worked, was putting pressure against the plug with my fingers, while the sink filled up. When the sink was ¾ full, I could release my fingers and the plug would seal. I didn’t want to have to do this every time I filled the sink though.

That is the only difference between the silicone caulk and plumber’s putty installation. Just like with the plumber’s putty, excess caulk will squeeze from around the flange. Wipe if off before it hardens. Testing the Seal Again, excess plumber’s putty or caulk will squeeze out from around the flange as a sign that you have a good seal. Scrap it off with a putty knife. With the pivot rod out of the way, you will only need to lift off the stopper from the top of the sink. Look for leaks. Wait for about 10 minutes looking for leaks from underneath the sink The level of water in the sink should not go down. I needed to cut a series of waste pipes and elbows first while also ensuring my waste pipe wasn't too steep.For seals that last a lifetime, try UniBond Triple Protection Anti-Mould Sealant. It was voted “best in class” for anti-mould protection in independent tests, and comes with a staggering 35 year guarantee. You may never have to reseal the kitchen sink again!

Both silicone caulk and plumber’s putty however don’t last forever. The seal will after a few years (depending on how well it was installed) break and the sink will start to leak from the bottom/underside. I recently cut a hole in my utility kitchen worktop as part of my latest YouTube series. However, after plumbing up my new tap, I then needed to learn how to install the kitchen sink waste and trap. Side note: some people don't trust these gaskets as they can leak. I've never had any problems. But you can use a ring of putty or silicone instead, then go to the next stage and remove the excess. Screwing the Kitchen Sink Waste DrainFirst, just for demonstration purposes, here's the bottom drain section. The pipe ideally should aim towards the overflow drain (as above).

A pop-up sink stopper has 3 rods which help it to work as it does. The one connected to the drainpipe (and hooked to the actual stopper body) is called a pivot rod. The rod/strip with holes on it where the pivot rod is connected is called a clevis rod. The other end has a screw type fitting but the pipe that goes out to the drain is smaller and has no thread on it so it sort of slots over a smaller ring of the internal pipe work and then the circular plastic screw cap/head screws onto the internal pipe work. Clean the area. Avoid exposing the surface to water. Spray a cloth or paper towel with household cleaner and clean the area. Wipe dry. Then clean again with bleach, before rinsing and leaving to dry.Start by disconnecting the pivot rod from the clevis rod. Seeing as the clevis rod has several holes, mark the hole in which the pivot rod is connected to prevent having to do adjustments later.

If you decide to use silicone caulk, apply a bead of the same under the rim of the sink flange as well as around the sink drain opening. Carefully insert the flange through the drain opening and push it down strongly to get a strong seal.

I now have a working tap and sink that I can use when cleaning up after food blog cooking sessions at Tastefully Vikkie. More Fitting a Kitchen Projects The problem is i have a bit of a leak at this joint, even then the screw end is tightened as far as it will go the outside pipe can slide and move in/out (though to get it completely out would take a good pull). The P-trap is the U-shaped part of your sink drain which looks like an inverted P. It holds a little amount of water at all times, preventing sewer gases from coming up to your house.